Tuesday, September 18, 2012

New River Gorge & First Lead Climb

I'm so friggin' pumped.  Andrew and I went to the Craggin' Classic event hosted by the American Alpine Club at the New River Gorge climbing area and had the most phenomenal climbing experience yet.  I've never met so many climbers, sent so much badass rock, and had such a concentrated amount of activity squeezed into one weekend for as long as I can remember.  We did boulder problems, top-roped and even did two sport lead climbs for the first time ever.

The lead climbs were a spontaneous "extra" feature of the weekend.  I was half joking with Andrew about getting some quickdraws at the local climbing store in Fayetteville.  I figured, I could buy some and have them for when we eventually got up the courage to do sport.  After mentioning it a couple of times, I think Andrew started getting excited.  Next thing you know, we're on a 5.7 with 6 bolts, and I'm doing lead.  I'm very excited about our progress.  We also did another one where Andrew lead.

Aside from the biggest highlight of the weekend we also did some bouldering in river bed by the damn.  I didn't take any pictures because I was so caught up with climbing, but that place is phenomenal.

The American Alpine Club just purchased some land next to the climbing areas and is setting up a new camp space (near Junkyard).  We camped there over the weekend.  It's a nice location, and when they get facilities there it will be even nicer, ie. bathrooms, showers, etc.

Here are the routes we did.

Friday

Bridge Buttress
  • Chockstone (TR) 5.9+ onsighted
  • Zag (TR) 5.8 onsighted
Junkyard
  • Jumping Jack Flash (TR) onsighted
  • Four Sheets to the Wind (TR) 5.9+ [did not send]



Saturday

Hawk's Nest - various boulders including a V2 (flashed)
Cotton Top - various boulders


Sunday

Sandstonia (aka Tattoo Wall)
  • Shady Lady 5.7 (SP) onsighted
  • Bobby D's Bunny 5.6 (SP) flashed



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