Pilot Mountain Clean Up

The Crew Who Rode in The Beast

On Sunday Nov. 25th, a small group of us went to Pilot Mountain State Park to help with the clean up effort.  The objective was to push off any rocks from the top of the cliff, so they wouldn't fall on the trail at a later time.  The burn took a serious toll on the top part of the cliff scorching numerous pines and turning the ground into a fine, black soot.  This soot was easily sent airborne as we combed the cliffed for loose rocks, and soon we were all caked with a thin layer of black dust, not unlike coal miners.  The dust filled our noses, ears, and on several occasions I found myself hacking and sneezing.

The debris was cleared mostly by tying into natural anchors and rappelling part of the way down the cliff to dislodge precariously balanced rocks before they decided to take a plunge into an unwary hiker or climber below.  By noon or so, we had mostly finished and were told that we could climb!

Teflon Toes

I was able to climb the following two routes on top rope.

• Gentle Ben (5.10a)
• Any Major Dudette (variation to left with roof) 5.10?

Bill Webster put in some bolts on a route to the left of Gotta Wear Shades called Teflon Toes.  It's rated a 5.11, but I'd like to try it.

I can't wait for Pilot to reopen, but it might be a little while longer.  While at the bottom trail, there were still some smoldering spots, and I left smelling like a campfire.  What a sight we must've been walking into Finnagan's smelling like a camp fire and looking like coal miners!

Moore's Wall

Due to the tragic loss of control of a controlled fire at Pilot Mountain, we headed to Moore's Wall today.

Pilot Burning

Pilot Mountain fire shows paradoxical need for prescribed burns

These are the routes we climbed.


Sentinel Buttress 5.5 trad, follow
Zoo View 5.7+ trad, follow
Blue Balls 5.6 trad, follow


I climbed with Zach Todd for the first time, and he led all three of these routes.  These were all trad climbs, so Zach was setting protection, and I was following and removing the protection.  This was the first time following and removing protection.  Zoo View was a second pitch, so this was also the first time I climbed so high.

Moore's Wall

It was a great experience.  Climbing at Moore's is quite enjoyable.  The routes we sent had juggy hangs and lots of foot rest.  Zoo View was definitely a challenge, with a slight overhang, but I found myself able to rest my feet, breath, regain my composure and able to continue the climb with coming close to burning my arms or panicing.

I can't wait to get out there again and try either something harder or leading.  I haven't placed gear before, but after seeing Zach in action, I think I'm close to ready.

Cedar Rock with CCC

I had the good fortune to experience some epic slab climbing at Cedar Rock with some new friends.  Brad Woolf organized a group campsite (Kuykendall) near the crag and had various events in store for us.  I'm not sure how long this link will last, but here's a link to the First Pisgah Climbing Festival.

I met lots of wonderful folks, drank some beer and sent some of the toughest slab I've seen to date.  It was a very busy day, and we got started a little late, so I only got to do two routes, however, they were quite memorable.

• Black Swan 5.10b
• Northern Exposure 5.8+ (I'm not sure about the name of this one.)

(I'm not sure about the rating of these routes, as I can't find any information on them.)

I wish I had taken photos of these routes, because neither of these is on Mountain Project nor rockclimbing.com, and I could have added them.

Access to the Cedar Rock climbing is about a 45 minute hike that passes over the Art Loeb Trail.

Mike Reardon and Brad Woolf are working on a guide book that should be available soon.

Here's a photo of Ryan Bandy being a badass on the slab.  (Thanks to Erin Nuckols for taking tons of awesome pics!)