Sunday, March 10, 2013

Red River Gorge - Fortress & Military Wall

Fortress Wall
Calypso III (5.5) trad lead, mock trad
I climbed this route first on top rope while placing protection, mostly cams and a nut.  After cleaning this route, I led it again, this time without a top rope for protection.  The crack that runs along the entire route makes for very easy cam placement, mostly #2 and #3's with a #4 towards the end of the route.  It's an easy climb with easily placed protection and lots of ledges to stand on while placing protection.

Snake (5.8) TR, mock trad
I did a mock trad lead on this route and cleaned the gear when coming back down.  It's a difficult crack climb, but placing protection is easy with the right cams and nuts.  I had the option to do a real trad lead on this route but declined.  I didn't feel I was ready for this type of challenge yet.

Military Wall
Moonbeam (5.9) sport lead
I was the first person in our group to send this route.  We clipped the first bolt, and I led from the lowest point on the route which is likely a V2 start.  By far the scariest lead climb I've done to date.

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