Monday, July 30, 2012

Pilot with Andrew, Aaron and Lloyd

I went on a short, early-morning trip to Pilot Mountain with Andrew.  I'm actually glad we made it out there early, as the weather was nice.  Towards 1pm, when we were getting ready to leave, the temperature had started soaring into the upper 80s, not the best climbing temperature!

Although we only did four routes, I pushed myself harder outside than ever before, and I was able to accomplish some feats I didn't think I could.  We started on Three Bears Gully.  We climbed the easy Honey Pot route (5.5), then I did a variation to the left which was likely 5.8/5.9.  At one point, I had fingers from both hands in a crack, the fingers jumbled together, almost wedged next to each other, with my left thumb completely wedged in like a cam.  The left thumb was the only thing keeping me on the wall, as I managed to power through that area.  The next couple of feet resulted in an intense moment of triumph as all fear left me, and I was razor focused.  This surreal moment of clarity lasted only seconds but for that instant, all time came into focus.  The whole context of what I was working towards, what I am now and what I want to become came into view.  I felt invincible.  I felt high.  It was a magical feeling that I had never had climbing.  I was so overwhelmed by this strange experience that I didn't tell my partner about it immediately.  I told him a little later, but I was unable to describe exactly how I had felt.

We then climbed Spin Drift (Lloyd's undocumented route on The Beach; picture to the left).  I had failed the weekend prior, however this time I was able to overcome the slight overhang.  It wasn't the best climb; I did have to let go at one point and float in space.  I was a little scared hanging there.  I'm not sure why I still get scared, but I guess it's a good thing.  I don't know.  Spin Drift has a someone interesting start too.  This is one route I'd like to do again.

We then met up with Lloyd and Aaron and shared their rope on 9-ball and 8-ball.  These have challenging bouldering-like starts and then an interesting finish to the right (to the left is almost trivially easy).  They are very short routes, and like I said, mostly bouldering type problems to start with.  I plowed through these like a stroll through the park.  The boys thought it was impressive, which I guess it was, and I realized with their reaction that I was becoming a decent climber, that I have potential, that I may have a tiny sliver of technique after all.  It felt good to ace those two last routes. 

I'm a little sad that I won't get to climb Pilot for some time.  I have a trip planned to NY, and I'm climbing with some folks up there for two days at a place called The Gunks, specifically Peterskill.  Definitely looking forward to that!

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